CAMBRIDGE UNIVERSITY PRESS
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Cambridge University Press
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ISBN-13 978-0-511-28490-8
© Cambridge University Press 2007
2007
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For Coneè
vii
Contents
Preface xiii
Acknowledgments xv
INTRODUCTION : FROM FORAGING TO FARMING . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Ch. 1: LAST HUNTERS, FIRST FARMERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Ch. 2: BUILDING THE BARNYARD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Dog . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Sheep and Goats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Pig . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Cattle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Horse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Camel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Water Buffalo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Yak . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Caribou . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Pigeon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Chicken. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Duck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Goose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Ch. 3: PROMISCUOUS PLANTS OF THE NORTHERN
FERTILE CRESCENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Wheat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Barley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Rye . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Oat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Legumes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Other Vegetable Foods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Dietary Supplements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Food and Northern Fertile Crescent Technology . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Ch. 4: PERIPATETIC PLANTS OF EASTERN ASIA . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Tropical Tuck of Southeast Asia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Banana and Plantain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Taro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Yam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
Rice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
Other Fruits and Vegetables of Southeast Asia . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
China’s Chief Comestibles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Rice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Millet and Cereal Imports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
Culinary Competition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
Vegetables and Fruits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
Agricultural Revolution . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Soybean . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
Beverages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Fish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
South Asian Aliments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Later East Asian Agriculture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
Ch. 5: FECUND FRINGES OF THE NORTHERN
FERTILE CRESCENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
African Viands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
Egypt and North Africa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
South of the Sahara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
viii
Contents
European Edibles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
Ch. 6: CONSEQUENCES OF THE NEOLITHIC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
Social and Cultural Consequences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
Ecological Consequences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
Health and Demographic Consequences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
Food Processing and Preservation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
Ch. 7: ENTERPRISE AND EMPIRES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
Pre-Roman Times . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
The Roman Empire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74
Ch. 8: FAITH AND FOODSTUFFS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
Islam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
Christianity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
Buddhism . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89
Ch. 9: EMPIRES IN THE RUBBLE OF ROME . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
Ch. 10: MEDIEVAL PROGRESS AND POVERTY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97
Ch. 11: SPAIN’S NEW WORLD, THE NORTHERN
HEMISPHERE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105
Mesoamerica and North America . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108
Ch. 12: NEW WORLD, NEW FOODS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
Ch. 13: NEW FOODS IN THE SOUTHERN NEW WORLD . . . . . . 127
Ch. 14: THE COLUMBIAN EXCHANGE
AND THE OLD WORLDS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
Europe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
Africa and the East . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144
Africa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144
Asia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
Ch. 15: THE COLUMBIAN EXCHANGE AND NEW WORLDS . . . 150
Oceania . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150
The Americas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156
Contents
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Ch. 16: SUGAR AND NEW BEVERAGES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163
Sugar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163
Cacao . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166
Coffee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166
Tea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170
Soft Drinks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
Alcoholic Beverages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181
Ch. 17: KITCHEN HISPANIZATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184
The ABC Countries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185
The Andean Region . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187
Mesoamerica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188
The Caribbean and the Spanish Main . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189
Ch. 18: PRODUCING PLENTY IN PARADISE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191
Colonial Times in North America . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192
The New Nation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
Ch. 19: THE FRONTIERS OF FOREIGN FOODS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202
Tsap Sui : Chinese Infl uences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203
Spaghetti and Red Wine: Italian Infl uences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203
Chillies and Garbanzos : Hispanic Infl uences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
Creole and Cajun : French and African Infl uences . . . . . . . . . . 206
Grits, Greens, and Beans : African Infl uences Again . . . . . . . . . 207
Bratwurst and Beer : Germanic Infl uences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208
Tea and Boiled Pudding : English Infl uences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
Ch. 20: CAPITALISM, COLONIALISM, AND CUISINE . . . . . . . . . 214
Ch. 21: HOMEMADE FOOD HOMOGENEITY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226
Restaurants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230
Prepared Foods, Frozen Foods, Fast Foods,
and Supermarkets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233
Ch. 22: NOTIONS OF NUTRIENTS AND NUTRIMENTS . . . . . . . 238
Thiamine and Beriberi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242
Vitamin C and Scurvy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243
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Contents
Niacin and Pellagra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245
Vitamin D, Rickets, and Other Bone Maladies . . . . . . . . . . . . 246
Iodine and Goiter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249
Other Vitamins, Minerals, and Conditions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 251
Ch. 23: THE PERILS OF PLENTY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253
Ch. 24: THE GLOBALIZATION OF PLENTY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267
Ch. 25: FAST FOOD, A HYMN TO CELLULITE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274
Ch. 26: PARLOUS PLENTY INTO THE
TWENTY-FIRST CENTURY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285
Ch. 27: PEOPLE AND PLENTY IN THE
TWENTY-FIRST CENTURY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 295
Notes 307
Index 353
Contents
xi
xiii
Preface
An ungainly term, globalization often suggests a troubling deter-
minism, a juggernaut that destroys rain forests, while multinational
agribusinesses plow under family farms and capitalism forces peasants
to move into cities and work for wages, thereby eroding social relations,
undermining local customs, and subverting taste in culture and food.
Raymond Grew (1999)
1
Friday I tasted life. It was a vast morsel.
Emily Dickinson
Who riseth from a feast
With that keen appetite that he sits down?
Shakespeare, The Merchant of Venice II, vi, 8.
“GLOBALIZATION” is a hot topic, at the center of the greatest issues of
our time, and one that has roused economic, political, and cultural historians
to grapple with the big question – is it a good thing or a bad thing? Book and
article titles like One World, Ready or Not: The Manic Logic of Global Capi-
talism,
2
The End of History and the Last Man ,
3
or The Silent Takeover: Global
Capitalism and the Death of Democracy
4
take a gloomy Hobbesian view of
the process; others radiate the optimism of Voltaire’s Dr. Pangloss such as
A Future Perfect: The Challenge and Hidden Promise of Globalization.
5
Similar passion is evident wherever Western activists, the youth of Islam,
and other dissidents gather to protest that synergistic interaction of techno-
logical revolution and global capitalism that we have come to call globaliza-
tion. Notable recent examples include the more than 50,000 protestors at
the World Trade Organization that turned downtown Seattle upside down
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